It may sound crazy, but fashion week is one of my favourite times of the year – thankfully it also happens twice! In the next few weeks I will be sharing my favourite shows from New York, London, Milan and Paris and what better way to start than a taste of the Big Apple?
Givenchy
A bride and groom were the inspiration behind the SS16 collection, which showcased in New York this season. “It is a very romantic collection, I am at a very romantic moment in my life.” said Riccardo Tisci, Givenchy’s creative director, a comment which undoubtedly intrigued journalists as Tisci likes to keep his private life away from the media.
This collection was a far cry from Fall 2015, which is far too frilly and feminine for my liking. I loved the boudoir element and monochrome palette. The clothes looked wearable yet alluring as they had been crafted from the finest of fabrics such as silk and embellished with pearls. It was also great to see that the bleached brow look from Givenchy’s recent collections was still going strong and really added an otherworldly element to the show.
Delicate details were offset with a gothic edge as seen on lacy slip dresses and loose silk tuxedo jackets, while the colour palette was simply black with white. It was a brilliant convergence of masculinity and femininity with menswear also making an appearance in the form of white suits and double-breasted suit jackets. The silhouettes were loose and fitted in all the right places as the models glided down the catwalk to music from a variety of different religions.
Zimmermann
If there’s one show that really stood out for me from NYFW, Zimmermann is it. As mentioned, frilly dresses aren’t my thing, but there was something so right about the floaty ensembles shown that I think few women could deny the beauty in the designs displayed.
Wide waist belts cinched Victoriana dresses in delicate floral prints, while tailoring was also apparent on fitted silhouettes in cricket stripes giving the garments a vintage English edge. These outfits are designed for the high society girl with a penchant for adventure. They are perfect for a day at the races spent sipping Pimms or even an afternoon session of croquet!
A personal favourite was a blue high-waisted romper suit with gorgeous lace and frill details. The blouse was a complete throwback to the 80s, an era I try to stay clear of in fashion, however this collection really appealed to me by putting a graceful spin on a trashy decade.
Thakoon
I remember the first time I heard of Thakoon. I was watching ‘The September Issue’ and he popped up in Anna Wintour’s office after just winning the chance to design a fashion range for Gap. He seemed lovely, albeit a little nervous, but who wouldn’t be in the presence of Ms. Wintour?
Although Thakoon has been around for a few seasons now, I haven’t always followed his work. That was, however, until I saw his SS16 collection. It was beyond beautiful and the opening look was a tie-dye denim set complimented by strappy peep-toe sandals. There was one design that I particularly liked that made the model look as if she had just rolled out of bed in a night-shirt and had thrown on a jacket to pick up milk at her local corner store. There were also a lot of breezy swimwear inspired dresses that were low-cut and in forget-me-not blue tones reminiscent of an Australian beach babe although these dresses showed more sophistication than the 70’s boho breed of girls frolicking on the beach and are perhaps suited to a more mature customer.
The show finished with some ethereal embellishment with mauve undertones which was poles apart from the dusty blue denim numbers. Although the clothes had deep v-necks, cut out panels and sheer fabrics, they were designed with delicate innovation and did not look vulgar at all.
Vera Wang
As soon as I saw the first look for Vera Wang, I knew I was going to love every look – something that is extremely rare. Now, having just researched the inspiration for this collection, I have discovered that it may have been inspired by high-class prostitution and films such as Belle du Jour. Considering that I thought each look was ‘very me’, this is a little disconcerting!
There was an abundance of black shown on long tailored waistcoats which were thrown over high-waisted hot pants and bandeau bralets accessorised with sky high ankle boots. My general opinion is that a crop top with shorts is a bit much, but it did looks great on the catwalk – whether I would actually wear a similar full look is another matter. I can see this look appealing to a lot of models or young women based in a busy city who do not have time or enthusiasm to experiment with colour or trends yet still want to look effortlessly stylish.
Diesel Black Gold
Diesel BG is a brand that never fails to disappoint and the SS show made no exceptions. There is always a lot of black and leather, which are clear favourites of mine and there is always such an essence of rebellion and androgyny.
The leather dungarees were a sure winner for me along with a harness dress worn over a boxy white shirt. Strappy net dresses were sheer and displayed simple underwear underneath giving off rock and roll vibes while white designs showed asymmetric shoulders with belt and eyelet features. As white is such a clean colour, it’s always interesting to see how it can be transformed into edgy apparel and Diesel really hit the nail on the head.
What were your favourite collections? Let me know in the comment box!
Images via http://nowfashion.com
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